Technique for Failure Prevention in Alpine, Ice & Rock Climbing

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) was founded in 1932 but did not publish its first standard until 1961. This standard (UIAA 101) on dynamic ropes was followed by the 1969 publication of a standard (UIAA 121) on carabiners. Many standards for alpine, ice and rock climbing have been developed since. The purpose was to minimize accidents in climbing and mountaineering by developing and revising technical safety standards for equipment. This has also been accomplished by accrediting the laboratories which test the equipment according to the UIAA standards, and giving advice and recommendations to climbers and mountaineers on how to treat their equipment, and how best to use it to avoid accidents. In all of this, there is a technical rationale behind the UIAA Standards in terms of forces and safety factors. This rationale for accident prevention will be explained including ropes, harnesses, rock anchors, pitons, tape, slings, and various connectors.